The LOIS Hair Typing system appears to be dying a slow death, despite there being many naturals that advocate for it over the more well-known Andre Walker Hair Typing System. LOIS was created by a website that is no longer active. The hair typing is considered by many to be very user friendly - due to its simplicity.
The LOIS hair typing system defines hair using three characteristics: (1) pattern, (2) strand size, and (3) texture.
Hair Patterns
The LOIS system defines the hair pattern by the letters L,O,I and S. I'll explain:
L = If your hair is dominated by right angles and substantially bends with nearly no curve, then you're considered a pattern "L".
O = If your hair strand curls or
coils significantly and appear to be shaped like the letter "O", then you're considered a pattern "O".
I = If your hair has no distinctive curls or bends and primarily lies flat against your head, then you're considered a pattern "I".
S = If your hair strand has "S" shaped curls or waves with defined hills and valleys, then you're considered a pattern "S".
Finally, it's important to note that you may have several different LOIS hair patterns on your head. When this occurs, the system allows you combine LOIS letters to determine your hair pattern.
For example, your hair pattern may be an "OS" LOIS hair type. In this example, your hair would contain primarily a combination of "O" shaped spiral curls and "S" shaped curly waves with defined hills and valleys.
Hair Strand Sizes
Identifying your hair strand within the LOIS system starts with using a strand of frayed thread. One piece of a frayed thread (like a piece of sewing thread) is used as a proxy to determine the size of your hair strand. The general thought (according to the LOIS hair typing system) is that a piece of thread is approximately the size of medium sized strand of hair.
Smaller than a piece of sewing thread = Thin, fine hair strands
Size of a piece of sewing thread = Medium hair strands
Larger than a piece of sewing thread = Think hair strands
Hair Textures
Thready - This thready hair texture has a low sheen and a bright shine when the hair is stretched. This hair texture should have low frizz and get wet easily. Even though this hair texture wets easily, the water will dry out very quickly.
Wiry - This hair texture sparkly glossy appearance with very little shine and low frizz. When the wiry hair texture is wet, the water will bead up or bounce off the hair strands. This hair texture is more difficult to get fully wet.
Cottony - The cottony hair texture has low sheen, a bright shine when the hair is stretched and is usually is highly frizzy. The cottony texture absorbs water very quickly; however it doesn't get completely wet very fast.
Spongy - The spongy hair texture absorbs water (like a sponge) and has a high sheen and low shine.
Silky - The silky texture has low sheen and a bright high shine. The level of expected frizz with this hair texture can vary substantially. Silky hair becomes completely wet very easy.
How to Find Your LOIS Hair Type
Examine a few of the most common types of hair on your head. If you have multiple hair types within the LOIS system, then you should begin by examining the most common hair type of your head.
Prior to examining your hair, be sure that it has been recently washed (rinsed in cold water) and doesn't have any hair products applied to it.
Another option is to wash a strand of hair that has been removed from the scalp and rinse it in cold water. Allow the individual hair strand to dry without touching it to get an accurate depiction of the LOIS hair type.
The LOIS hair typing system defines hair using three characteristics: (1) pattern, (2) strand size, and (3) texture.
Hair Patterns
The LOIS system defines the hair pattern by the letters L,O,I and S. I'll explain:
L = If your hair is dominated by right angles and substantially bends with nearly no curve, then you're considered a pattern "L".
O = If your hair strand curls or
coils significantly and appear to be shaped like the letter "O", then you're considered a pattern "O".
I = If your hair has no distinctive curls or bends and primarily lies flat against your head, then you're considered a pattern "I".
S = If your hair strand has "S" shaped curls or waves with defined hills and valleys, then you're considered a pattern "S".
Finally, it's important to note that you may have several different LOIS hair patterns on your head. When this occurs, the system allows you combine LOIS letters to determine your hair pattern.
For example, your hair pattern may be an "OS" LOIS hair type. In this example, your hair would contain primarily a combination of "O" shaped spiral curls and "S" shaped curly waves with defined hills and valleys.
Hair Strand Sizes
Identifying your hair strand within the LOIS system starts with using a strand of frayed thread. One piece of a frayed thread (like a piece of sewing thread) is used as a proxy to determine the size of your hair strand. The general thought (according to the LOIS hair typing system) is that a piece of thread is approximately the size of medium sized strand of hair.
Smaller than a piece of sewing thread = Thin, fine hair strands
Size of a piece of sewing thread = Medium hair strands
Larger than a piece of sewing thread = Think hair strands
Hair Textures
Thready - This thready hair texture has a low sheen and a bright shine when the hair is stretched. This hair texture should have low frizz and get wet easily. Even though this hair texture wets easily, the water will dry out very quickly.
Wiry - This hair texture sparkly glossy appearance with very little shine and low frizz. When the wiry hair texture is wet, the water will bead up or bounce off the hair strands. This hair texture is more difficult to get fully wet.
Cottony - The cottony hair texture has low sheen, a bright shine when the hair is stretched and is usually is highly frizzy. The cottony texture absorbs water very quickly; however it doesn't get completely wet very fast.
Spongy - The spongy hair texture absorbs water (like a sponge) and has a high sheen and low shine.
Silky - The silky texture has low sheen and a bright high shine. The level of expected frizz with this hair texture can vary substantially. Silky hair becomes completely wet very easy.
How to Find Your LOIS Hair Type
Examine a few of the most common types of hair on your head. If you have multiple hair types within the LOIS system, then you should begin by examining the most common hair type of your head.
Prior to examining your hair, be sure that it has been recently washed (rinsed in cold water) and doesn't have any hair products applied to it.
Another option is to wash a strand of hair that has been removed from the scalp and rinse it in cold water. Allow the individual hair strand to dry without touching it to get an accurate depiction of the LOIS hair type.
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